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  Destination: San Juan River, NM -- Trip Planning Information
Destination: San Juan River, NM
by Ken Louko

Location: San Juan River

The San Juan River is located in Northwest New Mexico and is a tailwater trout fishery behind Navajo Lake Dam. Nearest major city is Farmington; nearest town is Bloomfield, both in New Mexico. The village of Navajo Dam, NM, is your ultimate destination point. Also, Durango, Colorado, is only a little over an hour away from Navajo Dam.

Climate & Weather: High Desert setting.

Air temp is hot during July and August which is the most popular time to fish the San Juan due to summer vacations; but, the water temp will be around 43 to 48 degrees so keep your feet warm underneath your waders. The last two weeks in June (beating the summer rush) and the Fall (October - November) are also excellent times to fish the San Juan. The weather in the Fall can be cool to cold so dress appropriately. Check the AFFC site under "Links" - Weather for the latest forecast, or some of the links on this page.

Water Levels: They release water in the Spring for the for the ongoing Endangered Species Study. This lasts for a few weeks. The release did not not take place in 2002 according to reports. Then they slowly bring the water levels down in order to not contribute to bank erosion during the process. When the water is receding (going down), it is excellent to fish. Have been told that 1000 - 1200 cfs is a prime time to wade fish the channels and overall to fish the San Juan. Chuck Rizuto goes on further to say that it's the best time of the year to fish the San Juan due to the amount of water in the channels. The typical water level is 600cfs near year around (except during the Spring) but there is a move afoot to reduce the year around levels even further.

Latest San Juan River Reports:

Check these web sites for the latest reports on flows, fishing reports and hatches.

www.ifly4trout.com             Good, overall reference site.
www.sanjuanfishing.com      Check "Fishing Reports" and "Weather & Flows"

Airline Tickets:

Typically the flight is from Atlanta to Albuquerque, NM. Subscribe to the Clark Howard's email newsletter that comes out once a week. His web site at www.clarkhoward.com lists airline deals from Atlanta. Making reservations for these announced "deals" is somewhat of a challenge and must be done IMMEDIATELY if not sooner to get them. Farmington (45 minutes from Navajo Dam) and Durango (one hour away) are also a couple of other alternative cities that are closer but usually are more costly from Atlanta.

Another tactic is to get an idea of current airfares and then try either www.orbitz.com or www.priceline.com to obtain an inexpensive ticket and/or available schedules. As a word of caution about PriceLine, watch your departure and return times carefully as PriceLine does have some scheduling restrictions. You may end up having to leave very early at each end of your trip. Don't get caught being committed to a flight that leaves out of Albuquerque early in the morning if you plan to fish the entire day the day before leaving. Remember you have a 3 ½ hour ride back to Albuquerque from Navajo Dam, plus time to return the rental car, plus allowing an hour before the flight (checking your bags in Albu for the flight home is usually very SLOW especially now with the new security measures).

Car Rental:

All major car rental companies are represented in Albuquerque. If you're flying in and out of Farmington or Durango it is not necessary to rent a four-wheel drive unit. It is also not necessary if you're flying in and out of Albuquerque as long as you stay on the main, paved highways.

A 4-wheel drive vehicle is in order if you plan to tour other areas of New Mexico off the beaten path or decide to take alternate "scenic" highways. The roads get muddy and slick out there if it should rain. DO NOT go off paved roads if it rains in New Mexico -- even with a 4-wheel drive vehicle! You could be in big trouble getting help to extract yourself. The 4-wheel drive vehicle is handy to cross streams (and mud) that covers PAVED roads. Plus, there's plenty of space to store your gear and a lift gate to cover yourself while putting on and taking off your waders. NEVER cross an arroyo (normally a dry stream bed) during a rainstorm due to flash flooding, slick mud, sand, and powerful currents. Wait for the water to fully recede if you're caught in this situation -- and even then use good judgment.

The Drive:

The drive from Albuquerque to Navajo Dam, NM (and the location of the San Juan River) takes an even 3 ½ hours on good roads. Mid-way there is an excellent stop over point (gas, pit stop, eats, etc.) in Cuba, NM. Am told that one of the very best restaurants serving New Mexican fare is in Cuba on the right hand side of the road just after entering town. The name of the restaurant is Bruno's. By the way, Cuba is known to give out speeding tickets on a regular basis, as are any Native American lands that you should cross. Do the speed limit on roads crossing through reservation lands no matter where you are in New Mexico. Drunk driving is also a severe problem in NM so watch out for the other guy -- and don't participate either. Heavy fines, or worse, could be incurred.

Tourist Side Trip:

As you get closer to Farmington (coming from Albuquerque), there is a left-hand road turnoff (Route 57) to Chaco Canyon (www.nps.gov/chcu/) but the southbound dirt road was closed just before reaching Chaco in June, 2000. You would have to detour around the road closing and come in via the East entrance. Check a detailed map like a DeLorme for New Mexico carefully. No good way in - No good way out! A 4-Wheel drive vehicle is highly recommended and really is a must have vehicle if you plan to visit Chaco.

Chaco Canyon is an enormous settlement from the days of the ancient peoples that once lived in NM. Chaco was the center of an expanding network of settlement villages throughout the region and is archeologically very significant especially for the quality of their architecture. Check out the smoothness of the exterior walls all done with smaller stone pieces.

Lodging:

Rizuto's San Juan River Lodge, Navajo Dam, NM. (8 Rooms) approx. $85 per night, two Queen-size beds & fly tying table, plus some other amenities. Excellent place to stay and located in the middle of everything. Very clean. Web Site: www.rizutos.net Phone: (800) 525-1437

Abe's Motel and Fly Shop, Navajo Dam, NM. (52 Rooms) About $40-45 per night, a little dust in the corners but a good place to stay. Kitchenettes available. Across the road from Rizuto's.
Web Site: www.sanjuanriver.com  Phone: (505) 632-2194

Enchanted Hideaway Lodge, P.O. Box 6567 Navajo Dam, NM 87419 The Enchanted received excellent reviews by AFFC members in June, 2000. Located two miles south of Rizuto's and Abe's. Even has a hot tub! E-mail: lunatuna@cyberport.com   Phone: 505-632-2634

Rizuto's and Abe's are across the street from each other in "downtown" Navajo Dam.

Places to Eat & Drink:

Navajo Dam has only a few places to eat. There are two restaurants in Navajo Dam -- Abe's and The Sportsman. You could easily walk between the two of them. The Sportsman is located on the hill. Other nearby lodges (Rainbow Lodge and Soaring Eagles) serves food but you will need to be a guest to eat there.

Bars… both restaurants in Navajo Dam have full bars. Other towns: Aztec, NM, is 25 miles away; Farmington, NM, is 45 minutes away; and, Durango, CO, is about an hour away from Navajo Dam (via the Aztec road).

FF Guides:

I would recommend hiring a wade (fly fishing) guide for at least one day you're there. The San Juan River is unique and noted for fishing tiny flies to big fish. Also, the manner in which they set up terminal tackle in order to land these fish on small tippet sizes is unique. The other factor to pay attention to is river access. Take lots of mental notes especially if the access point takes you through some of the scrub brush and water holes to get to that section of the river. Bring a good mosquito repellent to use while going to and from the river in certain areas.

Mike Crowley (pronounced Crow-lee) is an excellent guide that I have used before. Highly Recommended! He's an excellent, mature guide that knows the San Juan and how to fish it like the back of his hand. Has fished and guided on the San Juan River for over 20 years. There are many excellent guides but the ones that live there during the season are the best. Mike is a member of the Independent Co-op Guide Network and can refer you to other very capable guides if he is booked the day you'd like to hire a guide. Mike can be reached toll free at (877) 259-0472.

More FF Guides (most info provided by Jim Harvey):


Durangler... Durangler's number is 888-347-4346.

Born N Raised (Abe's)... Born N Raised's number is 505-632-2194.

The lower river (below Abe's) sometimes fishes very well for big Browns, so Jim Harvey recommends taking a float trip with Joe Kresl or Mark Engler from Durangler's if the conditions are right. However, be sure to first check with Durangler's to see how the lower river is fishing if you're interested in this option.

Joe Kresl, Durangler: a teacher who guides only during the summer. Works hard, knows the river well, and can do float trips on either the upper river or the lower river, but specializes on the lower river.

Mark Engler, Durangler: over ten years of experience, very knowledgeable, good teacher, can also float the lower river. Reputation for sighting fish.

Steve Meyers, Durangler: photographer, writer (San Juan Chronicles), and one of the best guides - wade trips only. Great teacher, very knowledgeable, and a terrific guy - the kind you want to be lifelong friends with.

TJ Massey, Born N Raised: replaced one of the best and most colorful guides on the river, and has done a terrific job of it! Knows what flies are effective, works long hours. Never had anything but a great day with him.

Johnny ? , Born N Raised: over 15 years guiding on the river. A biologist who studies insect life carefully, ties a lot of new flies. Good reputation for fishing for very large trout.

Andy Kim, noted San Juan River fly fishing guide with unique flies. Andy has his own web site. He and his flies were written up in the September, 2001 issue of Fly Fisherman magazine.

Necessities:

Just a short list of essential items:

Heavy Duty sunscreen; warm (wool) wading socks; Warm clothing to wear underneath your waders (judge according to the type of waders you're using and time of the year); Wading staff (any type -- I use a heavy duty Folding Staff); Wading chains, or studded wading boots; Polarized Sunglasses; Full brim hat to protect your ears from burning - or great sunscreen for your ears if you wear a baseball-style cap on windier days. I always pack a rain jacket though the likelihood of rain in the high desert climate is pretty slim. And, carry a bottle of water with you in your vest while on the water.

Rods & Leaders:

The best rods to use on the San Juan are a 5 or 6 weight, 8 ½ or 9 feet long, with Floating Lines.
Bring a back-up rod if you can just in case you should break one.

Leaders, et al… short leaders - 7 ½ footers, 4x or 5x. Extra tippet material (4x, 5x and 6x) to add to the short, heavy butt leader. Bring strike indicators - nylon (Orvis has the best deal in a packet) and/or Orvis Strike Putty (Yellow). Also, bring a container of Shape-a-Weight; plus, #8 split shot.

Flies??? www.flyshop.com/Centers/Southwest/flybox.html ; or, check the latest reports (above). Expect Midge nymphs in sizes 20 - 24; Baetis nymphs in sizes 20 - 22; BWO dries in sizes 20 - 22; Parachute Adams in sizes down to 24; Black Carpenter Ant (large) patterns in the summer months; San Juan Worms; Beadhead "anything" to act as an attention getting fly ahead of the dropper fly; and, Disco Midge patterns sizes 16 - 20.

Fly Shops:

There are several fly shops in Navajo Dam in the same general area. Last count… 4 shops. All are pretty well stocked with most everything that you'd need - even tying materials! Shops: Abe's; Rizuto's; Fish N Float; and Durangler. Durangler's shop is not located near the others but rather is located on the road to the dam itself a little ways from "downtown" Navajo Dam.

On my first trip to the San Juan, I had to buy a larger "Steelhead" net ($59) from Fish N Float as it was impossible to net these fish using a standard-size trout net; and, beach landing the fish (the only other alternative) slowed me down too much. Don't bother carrying a small trout net with you!